Combo: Acebeam K75 Long Throw Search Light - 6300 Lumen, 2500 Meter throw with 4x 18650 batteries

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You’ll note something about this chart – and I noticed it in use, too. In the manual, the lower two modes for each group match 7 lumens, and 150 lumens. In practice (on the lux tube and current meter both), ECO and POWER Low mode is clearly different. The manual’s just a little wrong and that’s fine – I’d rather it be this way really. Why duplicate these modes, and in practice, they aren’t duplicated. Pulse Width Modulation There’s a lanyard included, which I mentioned above. There are a number of ways to attach the lanyard. Through the tailcap. Through the attached handle. But probably best would be to attach through the screw that holds the handle in place. This screw has a loop too, and probably the best location for attachment.

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This gets a little interesting. While doing my lumen measurement I couldn’t get past 2xxx lumens, so I had to read the manual. Something that men don’t do, right? The second-highest output (ECO Turbo) is almost perfectly regulated and heat never becomes an issue whatsoever. This is very good, and it makes the two-mode groups a smart addition. And while on other lights with this UI (TK16 for example) I’d probably skip the ECO, on the K75, I’d probably just always leave the light in ECO. That way, for every mode available throw will always be its maximum. That is, on any mode, at no point will the light step down and give you reduced output (ie reduced throw). ECO, K75 трябва да бъде оборудван с 4 x 18650 батерии с висок ток на разреждане, които могат да отдават поне 10 ампера ток. Below is the battery indicator. More on that later. It’s a very visible light though. Not bright, but very evenly lit, and well-executed. If the battery falls below 11.2V, the light will shut off. Since these 4 cells are in series (and also why the light requires 4 for operation), this means the light should shut off when the voltage is around 2.8V per cell. This is well within the acceptable range.

All output numbers are relative to my home-made Integrating Sphere and was set up with an Extech HD450 Lux Meter for measurements. For bright flashlights (above 5000 lumens) I am adding a Kenko PRO1D ND-16 filter. The base measurement is done with a Convoy S2+ that is tested at 137 lumens. There’s only one body here but there are two emitter options. There’s the LUMINUS SBT-90 GEN2 (WHITE) (seen here), and the LUMINUS SBT-90 RED.

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The battery tube has a great amount of knurling so it isn’tslippery at all. Another great characteristic! Measurement disclaimer: Testing flashlights is my hobby. I use hobbyist-level equipment for testing, including some I made myself. Try not to get buried in the details of manufacturer specifications versus measurements recorded here; A certain amount of difference (say, 10 or 15%) is perfectly reasonable.The tail cap, in the shape of a "U" has a knurling similar to that present on the body, in the lower part we find the writings of the brand, model, certifications and serial number. It is possible to insert, in the two slots that it has, a cord or a carabiner of a shoulder strap. For reference, here’s a baseline shot, with all the room lights off and almost nothing hitting the sensor. Also, here’s the light with the worst PWM I could find. I’m adding multiple timescales, so it’ll be easier to compare to the test light. Unfortunately, the PWM on this light is so bad that it doesn’t even work with my normal scale, which is 50 microseconds (50us). 10ms. 5ms. 2ms. 1ms. 0.5ms. 0.2ms. In a display faster than 0.2ms or so, the on/off cycle is more than one screen, so it’d just (very incorrectly) look like a flat line. I wrote more about this Ultrafire WF-602C flashlight and explained a little about PWM too. User Interface and Operation

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The problem with doing this is the difference in the opening of the Integrating Sphere. The Convoy S2+ shows different numbers depending on the size of the opening in the Sphere. The K75 uses a much larger opening. So I used the same opening to measure both lights.I soon figured out that mine must have been in Eco mode. So my first question was: How to change to Power mode on the Acebeam K75? I should point out that the values expressed by the graphs must be taken, above all, as a reference because they are made with means and environmental conditions different from those used in the laboratory. The tailcap is a “dumb” tailcap – no electronics or anything but metal going on here. The threads are anodized, square-cut, and well-lubed. The water sealing o-ring lives very securely and comfortably there, too.