TV-B-Gone Universal TV Power Remote Control Keychain

Product Information

The maximum distance that TVs will respond is 20–50 feet (6–15 meters), depending on the make and model of the TV, and depending on the angle at which you face the TV. The more directly you face the TV, the farther away it works. Each of the four contests (yes, four running concurrently) will award the top 50 projects. That’s 200 in total being recognized. The odds are really in your favor — currently some of those lists have less than 50 projects on them — so enter yours right away! Scroll down to see the mountain of prizes that we have for this epic run. Make Sure We Know About Your Entry

I have a setup with the IR204 and SFH585 in series with a 20 ohm resistor and a BC547 (Vcesat=0.2V), so that leaves a drop of 1.4+1.5+0.2=3.1 Volt. leaves 2 volt, so ideally I would be pushing 100mA through the LED's.

http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=12BH321A-GRvirtualkey56100000virtualkey12BH321A-GR I’ve created a schematic and added it to this project as well. All there is to it is a mosfet attached to an arduino, driving an LED. The dc voltage booster just steps the voltage up from 3.7v to the 5v that the arduino and LED needs. The first part we're going to assemble is the button. The button is a symmetric part so it can go in two ways. Line up the metal legs with the holes in the circuit board and snap it in. The button should sit flat against the circuit board. A large number of newer European TVs will work with TV-B-Gone kit, but its not as likely. For example, instead of 90% success, its more like 50% furrysalamander] has a friend that is a really big Doctor Who fan. It happens that this friend has a birthday coming up, and [furrysalamander] wanted to get her something amazing. A Sonic Screwdriver is always a great gift, but [furrysalamander] wanted to put his personal touch on it. He ended up adding a TV-B-Gone to [10]’s screwdriver, turning a fictional deus ex machina into a functional device.

Bigger Battery: Another new feature is that it has a bigger battery, allowing it to last even longer than the original model. Pin 5 (REGIONSWITCH) must be left floating for North America, or wire it to ground to have it output European codes.

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The body of the Sonic comes from this replica of [10]’s screwdriver from Think Geek. Inside, the screwdriver has space for a battery a circuit board to control the lights and sound normally expected of a sonic screwdriver. [furrysalamander] added a freeform circuit composed of an ATtiny85, a transistor, LED, and a few resistors to add the ability to turn just about any TV off. No. Because TV-B-Gone® remotes work by infrared (IR) light, it won’t go through walls, ceilings, people, or other objects.

One reason is that this lets the LED cool off. IR LEDs can take up to 1 Amp (1000 milliamps!) of current. Most LEDs only take 20mA or so. This means IR LEDs are designed for high-power blasting BUT they can only take it for a few microseconds. By PWM'ing it, you let the LED cool off half the time. The IR LEDs have more than 100mA going through them. This is way more than a microcontroller pin can supply (usually 20 to 40 mA max!) so we use a 'driving' transistor. These NPN transistors amplify the power of a microcontroller pin and are designed to turn off currents of over 100mA. When the base pin is pulled high (though the base resistor) the transistor turns on and the LED turns on too. When the base pin is pulled to ground, the transistor turns off and no current passes through the LED. v1.3 - Semver versioning implemented; various code updates, clarifications, & comment additions, and changes to fix PROGMEM incompatibilities so it will now compile with latest versions of gcc compiler; also improved blink indicator routines & added the ability to stop the code-sending sequence once it has begun; by Gabriel Staples ( http://www.ElectricRCAircraftGuy.com) The North American & Asian model works for televisions in the US, Canada, Mexico, and Australia, as well as many Asian countries (may also work in other countries that use NTSC video). The European model works for televisions in European countries and Australia (may also work in other countries that use PAL or SECAM video). The PRO version is disguised to look like a smartphone, but it really is a powerful TV remote control designed to do one thing, Turn Off the TV.The microcontroller is the device that stores all the codes and turns the LEDs on and off according to a program. Another reason is that the TV will only listen to certain frequencies of PWM. So a Sony remote at 37KHz won't be able to work with a JVC DVD player that only wants say 50KHz. Then I marked where to drill the holes for the screws that will hold the LED in place and center punched the marks. After mounting the LED I drilled a hole for the push button and secured in place with some moldable Epoxy. The epoxy actually ended up failing later on so I would recommend using some superglue. I also drilled a small hole to push the wires for the LED through and then used a much bigger drill bit to de bur the hole. Well, the IR333 that is used in the TVbGone actually has a forward voltage that is abt 1.4 Volt at 100mA but goes up to 2.6 Volt at 1 Amp. It is fed from 2x AA batteries so it is 3 Volt. As the saturation voltage of the 2n3904 that is used is about 0.3 that leaves 2.7 Volt for the IRLED. As with rising currrent its forward voltage goes up to 2.6 and the batteries will never actually deliver 1 amp. It should be OK. Will my TV-B-Gone® remote control work on the new types of TV screens, like plasma, LCD, and projectors?