Sealey SMS01 Drill Bit Sharpener Grinding Attachment

Product Information

A 3.5" diamond or CBN taper cup is needed for this design since they hold their shape for long periods. Truing an alox wheel would remove a couple thou requiring realignment of wheel to sharpener -- which takes several minutes. A sharp drill bit will work faster and give you a more accurate result. A bit with a dull tip won’t dig in easily. This means that the tip is likely to slip, and you’ll end up with a hole in an incorrect spot. However, you can easily drill a perfect hole with a sharp drill bit. Delta 1296 manual was found at Vintagemachinery.com. The Delta 1296 can sharpen various point angles, e.g. 135, 118, etc. If you don’t want to make a big investment in a grinder and plan on only using it occasionally to sharpen smaller tools, like drill bits, this bench grinder is a great option. The motor does struggle slightly with heavier loads, and larger items like lawn mower blades will slow the wheels. The Tormek T-8 is a better option if you need a multifunctional grinder that can also handle larger items.

To give you even more information, we’ve included a comprehensive buying guide on the best drill bit sharpeners so that you’re aware of the different features you can choose from! This will help you to make a better buying decision. View the Best Drill Bit Sharpener, Below. Derek Toller drives both the 4 facet sharpener and a Harold Hall grinding rest from one grinder using a belt to drive the arbor. The grinding rest is fitted with Harold Hall's end mill sharpener so Derek is equipped to sharpen many tools with this setup. This picture is the beginning of making the four facet sharpener stand alone. The blue box contains the motor start relay; the On/Off switch will mount in the cover. The 94071 grinder from HF (since discontinued) seemed suitable so I replaced the original motor with the HF grinder and it has been fine... although more power would allow faster sharpening. At left is the traverse lever and link setup. Note the yellow HDPE used for bearings on the traverse - not a conventional approach. Dovetails or ball bearings would be typical but are considerably more difficult to build and need protection from grit. These plastic bearings are lightly loaded, have a very smooth feel, seem impervious to grit, and are cheap and easy to build - takes less than a half hour. The area where the plastic grips the table gets polished but doesn't seem to wear in normal use.The split point produced may be adjusted considerably via: rotation angle, infeed, and point width.

While the first type is usually only suitable for drill bits, the attachments for grinders can be used with various tools and not just drill attachments. Builders who opt for this motor would normally skip all this, remove the feet and bolt the motor to a small plate to allow adjusting the wheel position vs the trunnion line (the switch would be on the left side). This plate would be bolted to the base with slots to allow adjusting position vs the wheel. The height of the motion control would then be set appropriately.Why we like it: This water-cooled grinder runs at a slower speed which prevents overheating when sharpening and allows you to get a finer edge on your tools.

On the less bright side, the model is a tad too loud for our taste. It's not necessarily deafening. You won't need earbuds. But the engine is a little too loud considering that it is not that powerful in the first place. The relatively low maximum RPM means it will take some time to sharpen larger drill bits. Drill point splitting is possible with a modest addition to this 4/6 facet sharpener. Based on the Mazoff article I built a version to produce a "modified split point", similar to DIN 1412 C. My prototype point splitter provides reasonable results considering my wheel's corner is slightly rounded from use. The modified split is angled more than a regular split point and its edge is undercut to provide positive rake. The 6 facet split point drill pictured is 21/64" with a 0.070 web where I left a 0.018 point width (point width is easily adjusted). Per Mazoff the point could be as small as 0.010 and remain strong enough. Carbide bits can be used on hardened steel and work effectively enough. But these bits are also brittle and will break easily. Therefore, if you want to drill into hard metals, it’s better to use cobalt bits. Conclusion We may earn commission from our brand partners when purchasing products through our links. Learn more.I often use #1 center drills for starting holes but find them relatively fragile. Should the tips snap off they can be re-sharpened to resemble a spotting drill (but with 4 facets) -- and are much less fragile than they were originally. Random Thoughts On Drilling

Brittle plastic like Lucite, according to Mazoff, benefits from a drill point over 140 degrees to minimize auguring and breakage of the plastic. Thermoplastics like Lucite benefit from reduced RPM plus lubricant or coolant to avoid melting while drilling. Builder Notes This powered 4/6 facet drill sharpener of my own design covers the range from 1/2" down to 1/16" for 118° and 135° point angle drills. This sharpener is reasonably easy to build and works well so in July 2011 I submitted an article to HSM magazine; it was the cover article for January 2012 - part 2 is in the next [March 2012] issue. The article describes construction of the motion control which can be used with various grinders, as illustrated below. I put a video on YouTube describing the controls and demonstrating their use. (Village Press has run out of magazines containing plans for my sharpener so if you would like to build one, here is a 5.8mb ZIP file containing the sharpener plans.) For those with a 3D printer, see this. Design Concept Note the slight curve in the junction between primary and secondary facets; this is because the (free) motor I used has a rubber mount so it moves away from the drill slightly when grinding the widest part of the secondary relief facet. A rigid mount and a ball bearing motor could eliminate this but it doesn't affect the way the drills cut so again simplicity and cost carried the day. This is also the best way to sharpen masonry drill bits that have a slightly different point shape to other drill bits. Based on my description of building this 4 Facet Sharpener and the article in HSM I hear from others who would like to build one. I try to answer questions that arise and aren't covered by my article or the above description and generally stay in touch with other builders, some of whom keep me abreast of their progress.The pictures illustrate variations on the original design, where the underlying concept is preserved.Another aspect to consider is what type of drill bit the tool can file. Some drill bit sharpeners can handle all types of drill bits. This includes carbide bits, masonry bits, titanium bits, and cobalt drill bits. Have a look at what your most-used bits are made from, and make sure you select the best sharpener for your needs. On the construction subject, this product seems and feels pretty tough. Plus, there are slots on the bottom that you can use to mount the machine to just about any workbench. This way, you'll be able to reduce vibrations and make this sharpener much more practical since you won't have to support its frame with your second hand. Other conical sharpeners were produced, e.g. the Atlas and Kalamazoo units, but these are no longer in production. I haven't seen the Atlas or Kalamazoo units but the caliper for axis offset used in the Potts isn't apparent so they are likely a different simplification of the Van Royen concept. AFAIK the Potts and Duplex incarnations are the only ones that implement the complete Van Royen concept.