adidas Men's Bc0884 Track Shoe

Product Information

Overhangs also tend to require a bit more of a downward hook than these shoes provide, though that wasn’t a surprise given the mostly flat and fairly stiff sole. The added grip from the C4 absolutely helps a bit here, but definitely don’t go replacing your steep shoes with these until you’re finished with the Magnus Mitbö Finger Strength University Vol. 187: “The Pinchening” program. Out of the box they're moderately stiffalthough they dosoftenover time, meaning that they're brilliant for edging when relatively new, and brilliant for smearing once they're fully worn in. This is aided by the fact that the sole is one flat piece, without being divided as a lot of modern shoes are. It allows the NIAD VCS to retain the stiffness required for edging whilst providing the tension required for smearing, although the shoe doesn't channel as much power to your toe as a shoe with a more modern design might. Despite the NIAD VCS softening up considerably over time, I've found it does still perform well on edges. The shape is fairly wide, yet has no problem with dead space, or uncomfortable pinching on the Achilles tendon. Because the slingshot rand is separated from the heel cup, it stretches further down the shoe before wrapping under the foot. This is a massive improvement over the original Anasazi, as well as the Anasazi Pro, both of which had significantly smaller rands that squeezed your heel to maintain a secure fit.

The Pinks have handled most styles of climbing I have thrown at them. From slabs to vertical and slightly steeper walls, they feel great. Be warned though, that the Pinks will reach their limit on very steep sport, bouldering, or modern competition routes. Just undoing the laces won’t make them instantly comfortable as there’s still tension from that heel rand gluing the shoe to your foot.The upper is thin but surprisingly comfortable, and the tongue is just long enough that I have never really felt any pressure from the laces, cuff, or seams in the upper. when I found out Five Ten were working on a next-generation upgrade for these iconic shoes, the Nose In A Day range, I was slightly apprehensive. The task of updating and more importantly, improving, a shoe as iconic as the Anasazi VCS is no easy task.The ultimate all-rounder “quiver of one” shoe. Yes, there might be better shoes on the market for edging, smearing, hooking, jamming, red-pointing, or climbing all day: but the Pink can do all these things – and more. Sizing - this has definitely changed from the original and is probably the same as the updated Anasazis, i.e. I need to go up half a size.

The two main new features of the Anasazi Pro are the toe rubber and a much tighter heel. The toe rubber is something that was requested by Shauna and Ned for competitions and bouldering, whilst the heel is something that I think just needed improving. How has this affected the shoe? The Stealth C4 rubber is a fairly standard 3.5mm along the sole, with a thinner strip over the toe. Therefore, most of the NIAD's stiffness comes from the midsole.

Soft enough for smearing, stiff enough to edge, combined with great toe jams and a precise big toe this is a great all-around shoe for beginners and advanced climbers alike.I think Five Ten have found the sweet spot between comfort and performance with this mid-priced shoe. Having to buy one pair of shoes is a persuasive economic argument for any occasional or all-around climber. A common problem with synthetic climbing shoes is that they tend to start smell BAD. For any climbing shoes, I would suggest bagging yourself a pair of boot bananasto fight the funk. The Verdict I’d recommend anyone looking to leave behind the gym rentals to try the VCS as they will provide a high level of comfort and durability on a wide range of climb types. Another unmissable addition to the VCS is the toe patch, an almost essential requirement for any modern performance shoe. This triangular-shaped patch sits over the big toe and instantly upgrades the shoe’s ability when it comes to bouldering and gym climbing. Directly underneath the rubber, in the interior of the shoe, the toe patch is lined with a higher-friction material, which helps toe hooking feel super secure. If gnarly bat hangs aren’t your thing, that’s not a problem, the new toe patch is significantly smaller than the full coverage of the Anasazi Pro, so it allows the toe box to remain flexible and unintrusive when not in use. The Heel Five Ten started producing climbing shoes in the 80s. The Five Ten ‘Stealth Rubber’ sole was one of the grippiest shoes available and climbers around the world loved it. This success helps Five Ten to grow rapidly. Five Ten also ventured into mountain biking shoes with great success. Acquisition by Adidas

The Anasazi Lace is a slightly asymmetric, moderately downturned shoe. It is designed with a roomy toe box that allows the forefoot to lie flat rather than in a curled position, and has a medium-stiff midsole. The result? The Pink feels supportive and firm, offering power and stability on edges, although it is flexible enough to smear and slab when sized loosely or once well-broken-in. And just as a refresher: Softer shoes—like the La Sportiva Skwama or Five Ten Hiangle—do not provide this same stability needed for precise edging, but enable you to toe-in better on steep routes. Plus, you’re able to feel the holds more underfoot, which many climbers like. I got these a half-size down from my regular street shoe in hopes I would be able to crank them down a bit when necessary and use them as the all-around boot they are purported to be. The length seems just about right however the toe box is loose on the outside edges and tight against my big toe. As the comfy-ness waned I started to hone in on just what was so weird about the way these shoes fit: the Anasazi Pros are noticeably symmetrical compared to just about everything I have ever climbed (or walked) in. Asymmetric design puts power over the big toe, making it easier to climb seams and smudge off small edgesOnce I got to the gym, it didn’t take long to realize the Anasazi Pro is not really a Pro performer in anything in particular, at least not enough in a way that is reasonable to market. Hot take, I know. I wish I could say I was impressed or discouraged immediately with any specific outcome, but it was a little more nuanced than that and really depended on what I was doing. In my mind a Pro-influenced or designed shoe would have pro features baked in and apparent, here the additions to the old design seem like a well-executed afterthought.

This shoe is pitched as an all-rounder. Out of the box, it's an edging machine. It's got a stiff, supportive midsole that stretches the entire length of the shoe, making it a great option for long routes on edges. Over time, the shoe softens up considerably, giving it a new lease of life – its forte becomes smearing, ideal for gritstone or sandstone where you really want to feel what's beneath. have used a double rand, so even when they break in it'll take a fair while before they stretch too much. I've found this shoe to Overall, I have been really impressed with the Anasazi VCS, so much so that I decided to get them re-soled instead of throwing them on the used pile. If I could change anything about these shoes it would be to have more toe rubber and a wrap-around heel… So basically the Anasazi Pros. For a fairly stiff soled shoe, I find myself taking them off and preferring to be barefoot rather than standing in them between climbs. This is surprising as they aren’t exactly what I would call a tight shoe in any respect, and as I mentioned were even down-sized a bit. This rolling can get painful and cause blisters if I don’t stop to adjust it. The suction effect generated from the heel gives you a really secure fit. During my time testing these shoes I’ve never had any issues with the heel slipping or moving when doing prolonged sections of slabby smearing or occasional heel hooking. RubberFive Ten has replaced the Anasazi dynasty with a three-shoe NIAD (Nose in a Day) line this spring — the Lace, VCS, and Moccasym, which reportedly retain the best parts of the original while improving shortcomings. In truth, there have been more than one occasion on slab and vertical where the grip and edging ability of these shoes have given me the confidence to place weight on a tiny hold. These were situations I would have most likely bailed with a softer, more flexible shoe.