Games Workshop Citadel Layer: Yriel Yellow

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Khorne Red: Khorne Red is a deep, rich red color that can be used to create a split-complementary color scheme with Yriel Yellow. This color can be used to create a sense of movement and energy on the miniature, as well as to break the monotony of the yellow. In our How to Paint Everything series, we take a look at different armies of the Warhammer universe, examine their history and heraldry, and look at several different methods for painting them. Today we take a look at the Craftworld Iyanden, a craftworld devastated by Tyranid Hive Fleets and whose forces now consist more of the dead than the living. Heya i recently bought a "small" cough batch of SM's as i wanted something different to paint than only my tau army. So i choose SM's because i like them and the new special GW model tempted me, and i got the 2016 special SM miniature as a Gift from my GF :D

Sure, as I’ve mentioned, normally yellow paint is difficult to work with because your first coat doesn’t do the job of providing good coverage. Spend the time to prepare your models for paint and save a lot of time later. 2. Apply a single coat of Yellow Citadel Color Contrast Paint For the rusted chips and deep scratches, I used Chipping colour from Ammo of Mig (or you can use any Dark Brown colours for this method). I applied this colour on some previous light chips, scratches, edges, or on the exposed or heavy use areas. Not everyone has an airbrush or wants to get one. They are a tool that can’t replace the feeling and control that a regular brush paint job can achieve (see why an airbrush is never going to be as cool or exciting as painting with a regular brush).

CMYK

Rotate your model and make sure when you add those details, you’re not focusing specifically on a single area. Spread out your work through out the piece. You’ll be playing and displaying with your miniatures from many angles (or at least most you will). Color Space Conversions Decimal 16767488 Binary 11111111, 11011010, 00000000 Hexadecimal #ffda00 LRV ≈ 71.4% Closest short hex #fd0 ΔE = 0.995 RGB rgb(255, 218, 0) RGBA rgba(255, 218, 0, 1.0) rg chromaticity r: 0.539, g: 0.461, b: 0.000 RYB red: 16.972%, yellow: 100.000%, blue: 0.000% Android / android.graphics.Color -9728 / 0xffffda00 HSL hsl(51, 100%, 50%) HSLA hsla(51, 100%, 50%, 1.0) HSV / HSB hue: 51° (51.294), saturation: 100% (1.000), value: 100% (1.000) HSP hue: 51.294, saturation: 100.000%, perceived brightness: 85.324% HSL uv (HUSL) H: 70.337, S: 100.029, L: 87.682 Cubehelix H: 49.477, S: 2.636, L: 0.804 TSL T: 1.846, S: 0.325, L: 0.801 CMYK cyan: 0% (0.000), magenta: 15% (0.145), yellow: 100% (1.000), key: 0% (0.000) CMY cyan: 0% (0.000), magenta: 15% (0.145), yellow: 100% (1.000) XYZ X: 66.315, Y: 71.407, Z: 10.290 xyY x: 0.448, y: 0.482, Y: 71.407 CIELab L: 87.682, a: -3.439, b: 87.663 CIELuv L: 87.682, u: 33.298, v: 93.187 CIELCH / LCHab L: 87.682, C: 87.731, H: 92.246 CIELUV / LCHuv L: 87.682, C: 98.957, H: 70.337 Hunter-Lab L: 84.503, a: -7.797, b: 51.932 CIECAM02 J: 83.907, C: 71.804, h: 94.470, Q: 180.472, M: 62.791, s: 58.985, H: 108.384 OSA-UCS lightness: -9.762, jaune: 11.655, green: 0.940 LMS L: 77.601, M: 74.616, S: 11.289 YCbCr Y: 191.407, Cb: 26.822, Cr: 159.721 YCoCg Y: 172.750, Cg: 45.250, Co: 127.500 YDbDr Y: 204.211, Db: -307.244, Dr: -96.627 YPbPr Y: 210.185, Pb: -113.255, Pr: 28.528 xvYCC Y: 196.512, Cb: 28.513, Cr: 153.060 YIQ Y: 204.211, I: 92.077, Q: -60.004 YUV Y: 204.211, U: -100.490, V: 44.557 Okhsl h: 96.610, s: 1.000, l: 0.875 Okhsv h: 96.610. s: 1.000, v: 1.000 Okhwb h: 96.610, w: 0.000, b: 0.000 Oklab l: 0.893, a: -0.021, b: 0.183 Oklch l: 0.893, c: 0.184, h: 96.610 Munsell Color System 7.5Y 8,5/12 ΔE = 2.673 Brand Color Sprint ΔE = 2.368 Random Colors

Final edge highlights step. The gun gets some edging with Mechanicus Standard Grey. The tabard gets an edge highlight of Altdorf Guard blue. I tried to paint them in smallest chips as much as possible by using very fine paint brush. Keep in mind that a small size and randomness make it looks more natural, and try not to overdo it.This process takes time and patience to finish but the result will be worth in the end. I was tired of cleaning up after myself, so I decided to adopt this little fella in the hopes that maybe the floor would be a little less messy. The good news is that it worked great; my floors are bare. The bad news is that he’s also eaten the leather couch, three of the neighborhood cats, and both of my legs. “Rippy” the Ripper. Credit: Kevin Genson As a result, I wrote this article to show you how I now approach painting yellow across my Imperial Fist Space Marine army.Now, as you’ve noticed that some of the surfaces on your model are splotchy where the Yellow Contrast Paint has pooled on the open, flat surfaces. On a space marine, this may mean you have uneven coverage (darkened spots) on the shoulder pauldrons, or along the leg armor plates. 4. Dry brush with a complementary yellow paint

http://www.ttfxmedia.com/vallejo/cgi-bin/_modelis_info.asp?p1=ing&p2=modelcolor&p3=1#modelcolorinfo Nurgling Green: Nurgling Green is a bright, vibrant green color that can be used to create a striking contrast with Yriel Yellow. As a complementary colour to yellow, it can be used to create a sense of visual tension on the miniature, and it can be used to paint the details of the miniature, like eyes, lenses or gems. I don’t use complicated techniques for any of this. All you need a steady hand, a few simple colors (1-2) and call it a day! http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/media/e588d28183cec31ffd6dcee6d3718fc3.cms/equivalencias-rev05.pdf GW's new range matches with the old range are the matches claimed by GW. However, many of the paints do not match very closely at all and some mixing will be required to get close to the original colours. If you are trying to match old GW with new GW, you'd be better just getting Vallejo game color or coat d'arms for the closest match )You can use this technique on owls from Games Workshop too. I switched the basecoats out for Zandri Dust but otherwise it’s the same process. Owl. Credit: Lupe Optional) This step is difficult to explain but basically, I shade the model using VMC Goldbrown. I do a mix of glazing, and recess shading and in some places straight layering. VMC Goldbrown is an ever so slightly darker but less opaque version of VGC Heavy Goldbrown so doing this results in a much less flat model.