Disney® Official Baby Yoda Backpack Mandalorian Grogu The Child | Large Star Wars Backpack - Suitable for Older Kids, Teenagers & Adults 48cm x 35cm x 13cm

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NOTE: Embroidering by hand will take you a LONG time. It took me 4 hours to do. Whether it's because I'm a noob, or because I don't yet know how to do embroidery with my fancy doo-dah sewing machine, it still took me awhile. Be patient, throw on a good movie or TV series, and get to embroidering! You should spot clean faux suede, or wash it on a gentle cycle and hang dry or spot dry. When washing, use cold or warm water with little detergent and little softener. Because this bag has interfacing, DO NOT put it in the dryer! Steam press if wrinkles occur with a damp pressing cloth.

Slip the handle/hanger under it (at least 1/2" on each side of the handle/hanger should go under it). You will even this out with the shoulder strap's middle seam lines (as seen in picture 3). If you are using faux suede like I did, use a rotary cutter and a cutting mat to avoid the shredding sides that I got because I cut the faux suede with fabric shears. yard Cotton lining fabric (I found a cool cork-looking tan cotton fabric that has a design on it that reminds me of textures you see frequently on Star Wars) Cross grain, also called the Crosswise Grain, is the grain that runs crosswise (at a right angle) to the selvage. The third picture in this step shows a clear layout of how to determine the different parts of the fabric (selvage, cross grain, and bias). The fourth picture shows how to cut out pieces to cut on the cross grain. Just make sure all the pieces are cut in the same direction as the first one. Faux suede isn't known to shrink too much, I've read, so it's really only necessary to preshrink the interfacing IF you want to be able to wash your bag without trouble. If you are wanting to wash your bag and are scared the faux suede may shrink, feel free to pre-shrink all your materials (except the foam padding).When using a fabric with a nap (such as the faux suede I'm using), knowing the nap is important to determining how you set out and cut your pattern on the fabric. When cutting fabric with a nap, it is important to keep the pattern pieces going in the same direction: either "with the nap" which means the fibers will feel smooth and are in a downward direction, or "against the nap" which means the fibers will feel rougher and not as smooth and are in an upward direction.

Nap is the texture of a fabric with the raised fibers of the fabric going in a particular direction (this property of fabric is woven into it). To get the nap, a secondary yarn is woven through the cloth which creates that raised fibers property. Fold over the top of the shoulder straps and slide those under the brown horizontal strip too, as shown. I had the seams of the straps facing outward, because it matched my inspiration picture. Plus, it made a great way to line up the hanger/handle with. Simply cut two 3" x 24" dark brown pieces. Fold each over lengthwise with the RIGHT sides together, and sew them around the two long sides and only ONE short side (leave the other short side open). Flip them right-sides out and voila, extender straps! (Note: no interfacing is needed)

ALWAYS TEST YOUR MACHINE SETTINGS ON SCRAP FABRIC BEFORE SEWING ONTO THE ACTUAL BAG. Do this every time you change up the fabrics or add in another layer. Set the tension to a weaker setting to avoid making tons of holes and, therefore, weakening the fabric. You can feel the nap of a fabric by running your hand on the surface of the cloth. If the fibers stand up when you run your hand in one direction, that's "against the nap." If they lay down smooth, that's "with the nap."

When I chose faux suede as my fabric for this project, it was both out of desperation (because my store didn't have pleather in the colors I needed), and because I wanted a textured fabric (and real suede is a type of leather so faux suede was my best bet). I had never worked deliberately with this material before, so I didn't know it was considered a fairly difficult fabric to work with. Not to mention it requires lots of pre-knowledge you need to understand before starting a project with it. Cut a side panel that is the height of both sides (each of my sides were 6" tall), plus the length of the bottom. This will match the width of the bag plus 1/2" seam allowances around all sides.Your item will be declared as "lost" if you haven't received anything after 60 days. After this time, we'll be able to send you a replacement and enter a claim in with Royal Mail on your behalf. NOTE: The extra dark brown piece you see in the first picture that has curved edges will be used in a future step. So cut it out for now using the dimensions below, then set it aside. tall x 10-1/2" wide (with curved edges matching the sides of the green top piece, or trim it to the shape after sewing the seams) dark brown piece, set aside Fold over the corner so that the straight edge of the bottom matches the straight edge of the side (see pictures 4 and 5 for clarity). This will make a triangular piece pop up. Add clips to either side of this piece to prepare for sewing (as in picture 7, the last picture). This part is actually much easier than everything you just did. And now that you've sewn the bag together, this should be a much simpler duplication of that process. Also, you will only make the lining go up HALFWAY up the sides, as the zipper panel's raw edges won't be noticeable once the bag is turned right-side out. However, you can make a lining that covers up the zipper panel's raw edges, too, if you want (if you choose this approach, you would sew up to the zipper instead of just half way).

Lift up the shoulder straps so they're out of the way, and sew 1/4" seam allowance along the bottom of the horizontal strap. The top piece (green) is 6-1/4" tall x 10-1/2" wide (This includes 1/2" seam allowance on all sides). NOTE: the height will be shorter on the curved edges, but the middle of the top of the curve should be 5-3/4" tall. Yoda and Baby Yoda have one big important detail that makes them the cute little creatures they are: their ears! To start that process, we need to add a gusset (aka: the fabric that extends from the zipper on either side). Take your 12" zipper and sew it right sides together with the first piece of fabric. Your seam allowance should be 1/4". MAKE SURE THE FABRIC IS CENTERED ON THE ZIPPER SIDE (the zipper will hang out both ends of the fabric).You can use homemade fabric scraps-and-rice weights to hold down the pattern on the faux suede while you trace it or cut it. This keeps everything from moving around. In the first two pictures of this step, the first picture is "against the nap." You will see the fibers are raised up and rougher looking. The second picture is "with the nap." You will see that the fibers look smoother. If you cut "against the nap," the effect will be a richer, darker look. If you cut "with the nap," the effect will be a softer, lighter look. tall x 5-1/2" wide Interfacing (x 2, matching the shape of the front ear pieces of both left and right ears)