Biostrip 20 Paint Stripper 500ml, Paint Remover. Water Based Solution to effortlessly Remove Paint and Varnish from Wood, Brick, Concrete, Metal, uPVC, Glass and More

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Non-Toxic – safer for the user and the environment than traditional methylene chloride based products Biostrip 20 is our original water based paint stripper designed for use on all “indoor” paints. Virtually odour free it is perfect for use in confined spaces. Also good on most plastics (always test a small area first) including models. Now some some people might argue this is overkill for stripping a few minis, but it's up to you how much you value your health and safety. Does not give off hazardous or noxious fumes - ventilation not required. Suitable for use indoors or in confined spaces

You can make all manner of thinners or drying retarders for your paints, I’ve not looked into this too much myself but mixed with a few other chemicals and household products you can apparently make some great support fluids at a fraction of the cost of what they sell for in stores. I’ll have a go at this for a future blog post. Just make sure you have some dropper bottles to store your mixes in.

How to get paint off miniatures

The Biostrip range of water based paint strippers are powerful yet more environmentally friendly and less hazardous than traditional methylene chloride containing products. Clean your Airbrush with it, Whilst I wouldn’t soak your whole airbrush in IPA as it will likely break down your rubber seals. Dropping IPA in an Ultrasonic Bath along with your metal airbrush parts will clean them up very nicely. You can create a safer mix with some Distilled water which will be better on your seals and just submerge the lot if you want

Well, so far I've used quite a number of "things" to strip my miniatures. My latest attempt was with Isopropyl Alcohol and I can confirm what's been said so far: doesn't harm plastic, it *does* its job but requires a lot of scrubbing, it smells awfully and you don't want your skin get in touch with it for too long. What I do know is that it strips paint off mini’s like nothing else and it’s bloody cheap for an absolute load of it! IPA does work OK, I mainly use it now to deep clean my airbrush as needed to get small amounts of dried paint out of awkward spots (teflon seals can cope with it, rubber ones, less so) Note – Biostrip Plus is suitable for use on some plastic and rubber, but we would recommend testing a small area first.

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Tip: For maximum effect cover the area coated in Biostrip Plus with polythene or cling film. This helps to prevent the Biostrip Plus from drying out and encourages a faster strip time. Although it's mostly safe in small quantities (70% IPA is the main ingredient of many antiseptic hand gels) gloves is still a good idea when you're soaking your hands in 99%, and work in a well ventilated room. (don't drink it, obviously)

I wouldn't leave anything soaking longer than required to strip it. Have a plan for when you are going to remove the minis rather than leaving them for a few weeks. I haven't ruined anything like this but better to be safe Although most won’t recommend it, it’s great for cleaning brushes. I wouldn’t soak it like a mini, but when you are finished with a colour, give your brush an initial rinse off in IPA to ensure any paint that has started to dry is broken down. then rinse it in the water to get the IPA off and stop it breaking down the glue holding in the bristles. I have Windsor and Newton Brushes that are like new after 3 years and I strongly suspect it’s because of this. (And The Masters Brush Cleaner and Preserver (UK Link)) Note that I never had any issues on resin either. As stated font soak minis too long as the material itself may be resistant but the solvent may remove plasticisers, addives etc which can render the mini softer or brittle. Leave in place until the paint has completely blistered or softened (time taken will vary depending upon paint type, number of layers and ambient temperature) When writing this post I took a spare resin part I had, just to test it. As the post was so long I decided not to add this part, but I’ve since realised it needs to be covered.

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