Joined in 2023 
82 
63 About this deal
Whether you bought one of the best marking gauges recommended above or have an antique, you’ll want to sharpen the pins before using it on any major projects. The depth of grooming is set by putting the Groomer-Gage bar on the front and rear rollers and rotating the grooming blades perpendicular to the bar. The first step is to remove the wedge of the cutting gauge, which can be done by gently pushing the bottom of the wedge next to the blade. Be careful not to drop the blade when the wedge comes free, or you’ll probably have to spend extra time sharpening.
c.1909 is the closest that I can come to identifying this all Boxwood guage [below] , but this item number makes no mentioned of the Stem being ‘Hooped’. Metal-beamed kama-keshiki are more expensive, but still cheaper than some high-end western wheel marking gauges. Tight joinery begins with crisp, accurate layout. This is why a scribed or cut line is better than a pencil line for most layout work. A knife and square can be used for most (if not all) layout jobs, but I find that a gauge is often more efficient and accurate. The three most commonly used in woodworking are the marking gauge, the mortise gauge, and the cutting gauge. Marking and mortise gauges use a pointed pin to scribe lines with the grain, while a cutting gauge has a knifelike blade that slices fibers across the grain. A marking gauge can technically be used for mortises by changing the measurements, but it’s best to use a mortise gauge or combination gauge. In a pinch, you can even use two separate marking gauges for each side of the mortise. Your support will help me to deliver the best William Marples information on the entire internet. Thank you.One of these first Gauges is shown below and I believe was personally made by William Marples Jnr. . It perfectly displays the first mark that we can associate with MARPLES…. W. MARPLES JUN and shows some wonderful irregularity in the handmade Brass escutcheon plate. Rosewood[?] with Boxwood Head Screw with both Head and Stem Brass ‘Faced’. If it were Ebony it would be #474 c.1873 Note the pressed steel ‘cup’ to shield the brass on the arm from the ravages of the head securing bolt. The #2154.1/2 with the additional pin, [making it a combination Mortice/Marking Gauge as opposed to the 2 pin Mortice Gauge of #2154] is only found in the 1938 Catalogue, so I am unsure of when it was actually introduced and then withdrawn 2 different examples shown below: The style of gauge which uses a knife instead of a pin is often described as a cutting gauge. This tool is sometimes used to slightly “mark” the wood before a cut to prevent tearout later when doing the main cut with for example a circular saw. What is the cutting gauge?
As for the replacement pins, any piece of thin steel needle or nail will work, but sharpened piece of heavy piano wire makes a fantastic DIY alternative. Just snip off a short piece and sharpen it with a file or grinding stone. It features a solid brass and stainless steel build, with a bubinga fence accent that feels amazing in the hand. Combined with its hefty weight, it’s an incredibly satisfying tool to use.
Japanese Spear-Point Marking Knife
In the 1897 Catalogue this below Mortice Gauge was numbered #650, but was re-numbered #2116 in the 1909 Cat. It was a Rosewood, Plain Head, with Brass shield and a Pull Slide and was available… 1873-1928
Great Deal 
New Comment